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一種(zhǒng)便(biàn)於使(shǐ)用的流(liú)變改性劑,給(gěi)肌膚帶來優雅的柔軟(ruǎn)感覺

COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY 2018Joseph Albanese, Kate Butcher& Binhua Yang, Elementis Specialties Inc, USA & Germany

製備過程

一(yī)般來說,在生(shēng)產周期(qī)的(dí)任(rèn)何可行的(dí)階段,在配方的油(yóu)相中(zhōng)最相(xiāng)容的非極性組(zǔ)分(fēn)中添加(jiā)Bentone Gel PTISV。不(bù)需要加(jiā)熱或高(gāo)壓(yā)均(jūn)質。然(rán)而,為了保(bǎo)證均(jūn)匀性(xìng),必須克(kè)服(fú)它(tā)與流體(tǐ)成分之間存在的(dí)較(jiào)大粘度(dù)差。我們(mén)建議使用(yòng)中到高(gāo)剪(jiǎn)切混合(hé)設(shè)備(bèi),如(rú)Dispermat 分散(sàn)機(jī),以便(biàn)在油(yóu)相(xiāng)中(zhōng)適(shì)當分散Bentone Gel®,並(bìng)在(zài)繼(jì)續下(xià)一(yī)步(bù)加工步驟(如(rú)乳化(huà)或添(tiān)加(jiā)後(hòu)續(xù)成(chéng)分(fēn))之(zhī)前(qián)達(dá)到(dào)均(jūn)匀性。當“一鍋加工(gōng)”是不可(kě)能的,你可以(yǐ)簡單地準備(bèi)一(yī)個預(yù)混(hùn)合(hé)的Bentone Gel與相容的油(yóu)(s)在側(cè)容器。其剪(jiǎn)切變薄(báo)流變學允(yǔn)許容(róng)易(yì)地轉移到(dào)主(zhǔ)混(hùn)合容器(qì)。在(zài)隻有較低(dī)剪切混合(hé)設(shè)備的(dí)情況下,首先攪(jiǎo)拌Bentone Gel,然後(hòu)慢慢加(jiā)入(rù)最相容的(dí)組分,始(shǐ)終(zhōng)確保混(hùn)合物在每(měi)個(gè)階段(duàn)保持均(jūn)匀(yún)。一(yī)項(xiàng)預(yù)防(fáng)措施是必要的,那就是避(bì)免長時間的(dí)層流(liú)。

圖9

季戊(wù)四醇四異(yì)硬(yìng)脂酸鹽有助(zhù)於顏料的(dí)分(fēn)散(sàn),並提(tí)供(gōng)了一(yī)個優雅的(dí)潤膚(fū)膜(mó)。從(cóng)代表所(suǒ)有原型(xíng)生成(chéng)的流(liú)變(biàn)圖(tú)可以(yǐ)看出(chū),Bentone Gel®PTIS V將(jiāng)其(qí)流(liú)變特性賦予(yú)了最終的(dí)配方。因為增加(jiā)的屈(qū)服(fú)應(yīng)力,organoclay有效(xiào)穩定(dìng)的(dí)顏(yán)料懸浮液(圖8)。

Bentone Gel PTIS V睫毛膏(gāo)的(dí)流動曲綫顯(xiǎn)示低剪切粘度(dù)和觸(chù)變性(xìng)增(zēng)加,應用性(xìng)能(néng)增(zēng)強(見圖(tú)9)。


下(xià)圖(圖11)顯(xiǎn)示,在(zài)24℃的室(shì)溫下(xià),僅僅幾周(zhōu)後,無有(yǒu)機(jī)粘土的睫毛膏就已(yǐ)經(jīng)發生(shēng)了(liǎo)強烈(liè)的(dí)相(xiāng)分離,而含(hán)有(yǒu)膨潤(rùn)土(tǔ)凝膠(jiāo)PTIS V的(dí)睫毛膏在(zài)我們的(dí)穩定(dìng)性研究方案(àn)中始(shǐ)終(zhōng)保(bǎo)持(chí)粘(nián)性(xìng)和(hé)穩(wěn)定(dìng)性。

圖11


文獻原文

an Easy-to-use Rheology Modifier that Brings an Elegant Cushiony Feel to the Skin

COSMETIC SCIENCE TECHNOLOGY 2018Joseph Albanese, Kate Butcher& Binhua Yang, Elementis Specialties Inc, USA & Germany

Processing

In general, one adds Bentone Gel PTISV to the most compatible non-polar components of the oil phase of a formulation at any convenient stage during the manufacturing cycle. There is no heat or high-pressure homogenization required. However, to assure homogeneity, one must overcome the large viscosity differential existing between it and components that are more fluid. We recommend the use of medium to high-shear mixing equipment, such as a Dispermat impeller, in order to properly disperse Bentone Gel® in the oil phase and reach homogeneity before continuing to the next processing step, such as emulsification or addition of subsequent ingredients. When "one-pot processing" is not possible, one can simply prepare a pre-mix of the Bentone Gel with compatible oil(s) in a side-vessel. Its shear thinning rheology permits easy transfer to the main-mix vessel. Where only lower shear mixing equipment is available, first stir the Bentone Gel and then slowly add the most compatible component gradually, always ensuring the mixture remains homogeneous at each stage. One precaution is necessary, and that is to avoid prolonged laminar flow.”

圖(tú)9

The Pentaerythrity Tetraisostearate aides the dispersion of the pigments and provides an elegant emollient film. From the rheograms, which are representative of the ones generated for all of the prototypes, it is easy to see that Bentone Gel® PTIS V imparts its rheological properties to the finished formulation. Because of the increased yield stress, the organoclay effectively stabilizes the pigments in suspension (Figure 8).

圖(tú)9

The flowcurve for the mascara with Bentone Gel PTIS V shows an increase in the low shear viscosity and thixotropy, which indicates enhanced application properties (See Figure 9).

圖11

The photograph below (Figure 11) shows that after only a couple of weeks at room temperature, 24°C, the mascara without organoclay has already undergone strong phase separation, whereas the mascara with Bentone Gel PTIS V remains a viscous and stable product throughout the full term of our stability study protocol.

用(yòng)於製備(bèi)樣(yàng)品的分(fēn)散機

德(dé)國VMA Dispermat 實(shí)驗室(shì)和生(shēng)產用的(dí)分散球磨設備


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